DRIP, DRIP, DROP: A How To, On Installing Simple Drip Irrigation With A Budget (Part 2)

Over the last few weeks, we have discussed different aspects of planning a simple drip irrigation system. Like: different questions that should be considered, and the “bare minimum” needed to for installation. But how do you install those parts? Today, we are going to walk through a step-by-step process of how to install your DIY drip system.

To start off, lets have a little “scenario” refresher…

There are two, raised vegetable gardens that we want to irrigate out to. The beds are 4’ x 4’ in dimension, and house 12 veggie-based plants each. There is a garden hose spigot within 25 feet of the beds

The picture above shows how the parts need to be assembled. It will be our reference diagram for this scenario. Based on this diagram, we will need:

Tools-

• 1x ¾” Teflon Tape
• 1x Kwikcut Cutters
• 1x 8oz (or smaller if its available) of pipe sealant and primer. ---not included in budget.

Materials-

• 1x ¾” Brass Hose Thread to Pipe Thread Female Adapter
• 1x ¾” NDS Wye Strainer (YS-75)
• 1x ¾” Senninger 20 PSI, at 2-20 GPM Pressure Regulator
• 1x ½” Slip x ¾” Threaded Sch. 40 Male Adapter
• 1x ½” Compression Adapter Ring
• 50’ ½” Polyethylene Tubing (poly)
• 1x ½” Compression Tee
• 1x 0 GPH Rain Bird Xeri-Bug emitters (25 pack)
• 2x ½” Figure 8 End Cap
• 20x Sod Staples (optional)
• 100’ ¼” Drip Spaghetti (optional)

Now that our “refresher” is complete, let’s begin our step-by-step process.

1. First and foremost, is putting the wye strainer and pressure regulator set up together. It is very important to note that anytime male threading is going into female threading, teflon tape is used to help seal the junction off from leaks. (Note: Teflon tape should a always go on clockwise, with the thread. See picture below for correct application method.

A. Take the Schedule 40 male adapter, and with the glue, secure the ½ compression adapter ring into the slip end of the male adapter. The end result is pictured to your right.

B. Apply Teflon tape to both sides of the wye strainer, and the threaded end of the male adapter. 3x around the threading will do great.

C. Once the glue has dried on the male adapter, thread the wye strainer to the pressure reducer. Then thread the male adapter to the other side of the pressure reducer. Use the diagram above for reference. (Note: Both the wye strainer and the pressure reducer will have flow direction arrows on them. Make sure the flow is pointing away from the hose spigot.)

D. Now, thread the “hose to pipe thread adapter” onto the remaining end of the wye strainer. Be sure that the “pipe thread” side of the adapter is the end being threaded onto the wye strainer, otherwise there will be leaks.

At this point, you can make a decision as to whether or not to also put Teflon tape onto the hose spigot. If you do, the chance of leaks at this junction is minimized. However, it will become harder to twist off later. So, if you plan on using that spigot outside of the drip system, I would recommend either getting a two-way hose spigot, or leaving the thread without tape.

E. Once, you have decided whether or not to use Teflon on the spigot, twist on the wye strainer set up onto the hose spigot.

2. After, the wye strainer and pressure reducer are attached, the ½” poly tubing can be installed. Please be sure that the poly tubing remains unkinked during the install process.

A. Take one end of the poly and insert it into the compression adapter ring. It will be snug, so the best method is to push the poly into the ring, while twisting it back and forth. (Note: Make sure the tubing is at least an inch into the compression ring to ensure it won’t pop out when water pressure is applied.)

B. At this point, you can run your tubing to the planters. Cut the tubing at your desired spot. Insert the cut edge of the poly into the ½” compression tee, using the same insertion method as before.

C. Then, take a cut edge of the poly tubing and put it into one of the two remaining ends of the compression tee. Run the poly to the end of one of the garden beds, and cut it. Place the cut end through one side of the figure 8, fold it over on itself and bring it through the other  end of the figure 8.

D. Repeat the last 2 steps, with the other garden bed.

E. If you chose to use sod staples, use one on each end of the garden bed to secure the poly line in place.

3. Once that the pipe is laid, and capped off, it is time to install the Xeri-bug emitters. The emitters are used to regulate the amount of water each plant receives within a specific time frame.

A. Each emitter will have a barbed end. Choose the location best for your plant and with the barbed end push it into the poly tubing. You will hear a “pop” noise when the barb goes through. BUT be careful not to go through the back side of the tubing! The emitter will be flush with the poly when finished.

B. Now, if you chose to use spaghetti (which is recommended for water distribution), attach the end of the spaghetti to the “emitter” side of the xeri-bug. Extend the spaghetti to the base of you plant, and cut.

C. Again, if sod staples were in the budget, use one at the end of each spaghetti line to hold the tubing in place.

D. Repeat the last 3 steps for each plant.

Now that your set up is complete, turn on your water and test it out! Check for any leaks or uneven flow from the emitters. Once, your system passes the trial run, sit back, relax, and enjoy your new Drip Irrigation System!